Walking into the atrium of the West Baden Springs Hotel in West Baden Springs, Indiana, feels like entering a scene from Edith Wharton’s 1920 novel, The Age of Innocence. The novel’s characters from upper-class New York City society in the 1870s would have felt at home amidst the hotel’s extensive gold leaf décor, huge palm fronds, and life-size statues of Greek gods surrounding green velvet fainting couches, elaborate tile floors, and marble counters.
The 200-foot-wide atrium in the West Baden Springs Hotel may not have been the setting for a Pulitzer-prize winning novel, but the resort, first built in 1855 and named after the famous mineral springs in Wiesbaden, Germany, has its own story to tell.
When architects constructed the atrium’s free-spanning dome above the 6-story atrium in 1901, it was declared the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” Celebrities and political figures like the Roosevelts and the Gettys flocked to the area by claims of miracle waters from local sulfur springs. The water, which supposedly cured dozens of diseases, including alcoholism and diabetes, was discovered later to contain lithium, which today is used in batteries.
The stock market crash of 1929 brought an end to the hotel’s visitors. In 1934 the West Baden Springs Hotel was sold for one dollar to Jesuit priests. The elegant hotel operated as a seminary for 30 years, then fell into disrepair, along with its equally glamorous sister accommodation, French Lick Springs Hotel built in 1901 and located just a mile away.
In 2005 Cook Group Inc., an Indiana-based company based out of Bloomington, Indiana, dedicated $382 million for the historic restoration of both hotels.
Today, the resorts of West Baden with 246 rooms and French Lick with 443 rooms reflect their original grandeur. More than 5,000 square feet of gold leafing on cornices and fixtures adorn nearly a dozen dining rooms, conference areas, and state-of-the-art spas.
The casino at French Lick Springs sports 51,000 square feet of slot machines and table games. Golf is also big here with a new 18-hole Pete Dye Golf course. Situated high on a neighboring mountain with rolling hills to challenge a seasoned sportsman, the Pete Dye course has been selected as the site for the 2010 PGA Professionals National Championship.
When gambling and golfing wear you down, retreat to one of the hotels’ elaborate spas.
The Spa at French Lick features 24 rooms offering a diverse selection of treatments, including an hour-long hydrotherapy treatment. The Spa at West Baden features a newly renovated 2-level natatorium housing a pool, salon, and health club.
Both hotels offer spa treatments that include bathing in the mineral springs that made the area famous.
Be sure to top off your stay with a visit to the Grand Colonnade Buffet. The Restaurant in the French Lick Hotel formerly served as a ballroom where Franklin D. Roosevelt received his party’s support to run for President. Look above your head to notice chandeliers adorned with 25,000 crystals and Trompe l’oeil art on the ceiling.
The West Baden Springs Hotel was listed on the National Register of Historic Places In 1974; in 1987 it earned designation as a National Historic Landmark.
For more information go to www.frenchlick.com
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Reprinted with permission of the News-Sentinel www.news-sentinel.com
Photos by Kayleen Reusser
Writing of Kayleen Reusser 
Hi Kay, I have never been to French Lick, but my parents have been and they LOVED IT!
French Lick was much more beautiful than what we dreamed. Going in the springtime was an added plus!
Drew and I spent a weekend down there with his parents. It was a wonderful getaway that was still close to home! How fortunate Indiana is to have a place like this!
Amy: Thanks for your comment. It almost seemed like a country in Europe to us. We are indeed fortunate to have such fantastic getaways in our state. I plan to post a travel article each week. Hope you stop by daily to read other stories I’ve written. Take care,
Enjoyed the article on French Lick since I’ve heard a lot about it but never been there.
It’s easy to get around on your web site.Your books are clearly highlighted, and there is no question as to how people can get you for presentations.
I wish you well, Kayleen. May your influence expand and satisfy your and your Maker’s hearts.
Paula: Thanks for your comments. You’ll want to visit French Lick. Amazing! Thanks for your support. I hope we can meet again soon.
My husband and I rode our motorcycle to French Lick, staying at one of the gorgeous hotels there, making it our “base” for our Southern Indiana tour. Each year we ride to destinations all over Indiana and then turn in our photo with the ABATE book/motorcycle/destination photo. It’s been amazing discovering Indiana’s treasures.
Loved your photos.We make it a point to go to French Lick at least once or twice a year. While we love the restaurant in the French Lick hotel, the best restaurant is a Mexican restaurant over by the grocery store! Their food is GREAT.
I’ll have to see you on a motorcyle to believe it! Glad you liked the photos. It was a joy taking them w/ such beautiful architecture. We’ll have to return and check out the Mexican restaurant — thanks for the heads up. Have a blessed Christmas!